While many look to Dublin prawns or Irish Sea salmon to start their culinary adventure in Irish seafood, one look to (or random suggestion for) the west coast will have the traveler changing their plans. Classic fishing ports dotted along the coasts beginning around Co. Cork and winding up to Galway Bay will lend themselves to charm, stories, and some of the best seafood ever. Add a bit of history to the pot and stir, and the experience of the Irish seafood plate is complete.
While I was at school, Darina Allen encouraged the students to visit Ballycotton Harbour near Ballymaloe. It was at the docks that we watched the fishermen bring in their loads of seasonal fish. Certain times of the year lent itself to better fishing. Winter was meant for sole, turbot, and John Dory fish, while the spring held bounties of shrimp, crab and even lobster. Preparing these wonderful products was, for me, a privilege. Seafood all over the world is expensive. Ballymaloe allowed us to see the fish fresh, skin it, bone it, and prepare it in such a way that complemented the flavor and texture, without turning it into an unrecognizable ingredient. So now walking among the seafood counters at the store, I am not afraid.
Anyway, during the autumn ‘bank holiday’ weekend, a couple of us students toured the coast and found our way to Kinsale, Co. Cork. This was a wonderful stop along the southern route heading towards the Dingle Peninsula. Kinsale is noted for boating, sea angling, and food festivals. (In 1601, Spanish/Irish forces were defeated here by British troops. The Spanish influence will be important later.) For us travelling students the town was so full of character, not to mention great restaurants; we were impressed just walking through town and tried to get a table at the Blue Haven overlooking the harbor. After about an hour at the bar sipping wine, we were seated in the restaurant. I was constantly looking for the best smoked salmon (which I found from Hederman’s in Cork), so I had poached salmon, while Lucy had a plate of the largest prawns I’d ever seen. She only lightly dipped them in melted Irish butter and had to declare them the best. Simply prepared, she sketched her guess of the recipe and vowed to try them back at school.
We wound around the Irish coastal corner and headed to Dingle. I’d been there a couple times and back then we went out to Skellig Michael on the way. It is quite a sight, but not a place or boat ride for landlubbers. Avoiding the boat rides and enjoying the sea air this time, we stopped along the shores for only tea and a snack. Our goal was for Galway.
Galway is the epicenter of vibrant culture in Ireland. They have festivals throughout the year, numerous parades, and music events. When it comes to food, the main event is the Galway Oyster Festival. This event began in 1954 by a local hotel owner and is now one of the longest festivals running. It happens every September (so we had missed it by that time), and lasts only one weekend. Pair a creamy Guinness and a platter of fresh oysters, and there is nothing better!
Historically speaking, Galway has a bit of Spanish blood. There was a complicated history with Spain beginning in the early 1600’s. Basically, Spain and Ireland were working together after signing treaties to fight off Cromwell. Unfortunately, they were not successful. However, even after the loss, some of the Spanish soldiers found the Irish lasses in Galway worth leaving Spain behind. They settled on the coast, influencing architecture as seen in the Spanish Arch and Spanish Parade. Also Spanish influenced was the local cuisine, with their use of more spices and seasonings. My cod stew with chorizo, leeks and potatoes reflects the great heritage of Irish seafood and produce while combing it with a ‘recent’ influence of Spanish chorizo, a Spanish smoked sausage.
The wealth of Irish seafood is spread country wide. The west coast has such a plethora of choices, flavors and influences, one cannot say that they’ve had a taste and think they know the dish while another version waits over in the next town. What an adventure
Cod Stew with Chorizo, Leeks, and Potatoes
1 large leek, sliced into 1/2 in. rounds and soaked in water to remove grit
6 oz. chorizo, sliced into 1/2 in. rounds
1 T. olive oil
1 lb. red potatoes, cut into 1/2 in. cubes
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 t. dried thyme
1 28 oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, with juice
1/2 c. dry white wine
2 c. water
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 c. chopped parsley
1 lb. cod, cut in four pieces
French bread
Put potatoes in pot with salted, boiling water. Let cook until just tender, 7-10 minutes. Drain and put aside. In large soup pot, heat oil. Add sausage and cook for several minutes. Drain and add leeks. Cook until leeks are soft. Add garlic, stir 1 minute. Add wine, water, thyme, 1/2 t. salt, 1/4 t. pepper. Hand crush tomatoes over pot and add juice. Slowly boil for 15 minutes. Add 1/2 parsley and potatoes and stir. Taste and adjust seasoning. Carefully lay cod on top of stew, partially cover with lid and cook until fish is opaque, 6-8 minutes. Using spatula, pick up piece of fish and set aside. Ladle stew into bowls and lay fish on top. Sprinkle with remaining parsley. Serve with slices of French bread, brushed with olive oil and toasted under broiler. Brilliant!
Julianna Leber is a graduate of the professional food and wine courses at Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, Ireland. She occasionally serves as a personal chef while also continuing her studies toward a dietetics/nutrition degree at The University of Akron. During “The Green Season” at the Brown St. Hibernian Club, she prepares her favorite Irish dishes, to the delight of many. Julianna can be contacted at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
