Top O’ the Morning with an Irish Fry Up

There are few things outside of Guinness, Jameson, and painted sheep that say Ireland more than the hearty Irish breakfast fry up. This original ‘heart attack on a plate’ was designed by the great Irish mothers who had to feed her boys and husband a breakfast that would stick with them throughout their day in the field or out on the bog. It is also a good remedy for the morning after and a sore head… but I digress. This Irish breakfast, or fry up, can keep the consumer satisfied throughout the morning and well into the afternoon.

How can a simple breakfast do all this, you ask? Let me detail the wonderful list of ingredients. To start, three different forms of breakfast meat are served: bangers, which is loosely translated as Irish link sausage (but we’ll talk about that later), rashers, (talk about that later), and black and white pudding (definitely talk about that later!) On the same plate, add one half of a grilled tomato, two eggs over easy, and two slices of fresh brown soda bread (no potatoes, please). Side that with steaming Irish tea, and you have the best breakfast since grandma on the farm.
To travel to Ireland and have that kind of breakfast first-hand makes the fry up aficionado want, almost need, that type of feast every once and again. Some folks are lucky to be living in an area where they may have a local Irish pub or restaurant that will proudly serve the full Irish breakfast on their all day menu. Others just might have a specialty market that sells Irish bangers next to clotted cream and scones. I found the real article from a company that makes, sells, and efficiently, expertly sends its products from California so you can make this great traditional meal with very little local grocery shopping. Just let the U.S. mail do the work, and by tomorrow morning your table could be proudly offering an Irish fry up.

Many years ago (about 6), I searched the internet for Irish breakfast food and discovered a company called Shannon Valley Traditional Irish style Meats. I was very happy to find them, as at that time I was preparing an Irish breakfast for the local Hibernian club. I was on Shannon Valley Traditional website almost every day, looking at their products, emailing the company and trying to find out as much as I could about their products. One evening I got a call from Bernard, the owner of the company. He started with a thick Waterford accent, “Hello Julianna! It’s Bernard from Irishgrub.com!” (All of his sentences ended with exclamation marks.) He told me all about himself, his training and the company he started. He sounded happy to be doing what he loved, which was feeding people a traditional Irish breakfast, even if it was in their own kitchens many miles away. We talked for a bit, he took my order for the breakfast and I promised him a report. I sent a thank you for his great products, all his help, and assured him I’d keep him in mind for any other events.

Over the years and as I began to write for IAN Ohio, I knew I wanted to revisit Shannon Valley Meats and talk with Bernard about his work. Just a few days ago, I got the chance again to ‘have tea’ with a great person and brilliant cook, though just through the lines of Ma Bell.
Bernard Kavanagh was born and grew up in 1950’s Co. Waterford, Ireland, where he went to school with the Holy Ghost Fathers. He learned his trade in the kitchen at Rockwell starting around age 14 and, though it was VERY challenging, he loved it. He made his way over to the States in the early 1970’s and landed on the West Coast where he worked as executive chef for large corporations such as Hilton and the like. Though he enjoyed American life, he missed traditional Irish foods especially the breakfast meats. A few restaurants served the breakfast and he relished the meals of home. Over time, Bernard formulated a business plan to make traditional Irish meats and to have them available on the internet. But first, he felt he needed a little more education so he went back to Ireland.

Bernard studied the methodology of preparing the many different kinds of products, how to traditionally brine the pork, and the right combination of rusk, a bread filling, and spices for his quality end product. After six months of techniques and recipes, Bernard returned to the States and started Shannon Valley Traditional meats.

Bernard could not have done all this alone, mind you. He had his beautiful bride of many years, Rose Marie Kimball Kavanagh by his side. She worked with him on his business, and even designed the Shannon Valley logo that is displayed on all of the products. Bernard told me Rosie took the design seriously, knowing the label had to be perfect, down to the exact shade of green. I could tell in his voice he was proud of her and all her work for the business and their life together. What a woman to have her husband say one day, “Love of my life, I want to make sausage!”

Speaking of sausage, Bernard told me about the products and said technically the bangers could not be called ‘sausage’ since rusk was added. It is this bread filling that gives the links its distinctive texture. And, he continued, as the meat cooks and the rusk, salt and water make the link expand, there is a ‘bang’ when the casing splits. He said that is where the name ‘banger’ comes from. The rasher is taken from the lean loin, making it a low fat morning meat. Though sometimes called bacon, it is not like American bacon. That would actually be called ‘streaky bacon’. And then there’s black and white pudding, AKA blood sausage. The white pudding is pork, oatmeal and spices, whereas the black has pork blood. A unique flavor, but well loved by many.

As I finished my conversation with Bernard he told me his lovely, spirited wife passed away October 31, 2003. After five years, he missed her still and yet had a smile in his voice any time he mentioned her name. Miss Tara, his faithful, furry, four legged friend of 17 years died last year but Bernard still was optimistic. “Maybe I’ll find a puppy to follow me home from the pound!” Smelling like bangers and rashers, I’m sure he will.

A huge thank you to Mr. Bernard Kavanagh for his time and storytelling. You are a cook and a seanachai.

For the best Irish breakfast meats and more, please go to www.Irishgrub.com. They ship 1- and 2-day all over the USA.

Julianna Leber is a graduate of the professional food and wine courses at Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, Ireland. She occasionally serves as a personal chef while also continuing her studies toward a dietetics/nutrition degree at The University of Akron. During “The Green Season” at the Brown St. Hibernian Club, she prepares her favorite Irish dishes, to the delight of many. Julianna can be contacted at julileber@hotmail.com.